A Ramble Along the Smuggler’s Coast: Perranuthnoe to Prussia Cove

There’s something about a Sunday morning ramble that shifts the soul - a reset before the new week begins. This weekend, thirteen of us gathered in the heart of Perranuthnoe, a picturesque village nestled between Mount’s Bay and the green sprawl of West Cornwall. As we laced up our boots and greeted each other with sleepy smiles and eager anticipation, it was clear that we were about to share something special.

The forecast had warned us to brace for blustery winds and dampened spirits but Cornwall, always one for surprises, gifted us warmth, blue skies, and a gentle breeze rolling in off the sea. With spirits lifted, we set off along the coast path, tracing the rugged edge of the land as it plunged into turquoise waves below.

Windswept Cliffs and Wild Companions

The South West Coast Path from Perranuthnoe toward Prussia Cove is a feast for the senses. To our left, the Atlantic stretched out in a shimmering dance, its waves crashing playfully against rocks and coves hidden from plain sight. To our right, hedgerows buzzed with insect life, the air alive with the sounds of summer.

Every so often, our group would pause, not from exertion, but from awe. We spotted a seal bobbing curiously in the water, its head tilting inquisitively toward our clifftop chatter. High above us, peregrine falcons cut arcs through the sky while a proud Cornish chough - one of Cornwall’s rarest and most treasured birds - made a dramatic appearance, swooping low in a blur of black feathers and red beak.

Butterflies flitted between us as we walked: red admirals, common blues, and speckled woods. Bumblebees hummed across wildflowers carpeting the coastal edge; sea thrift, kidney vetch, and bright flashes of bird’s-foot trefoil. It was as if the land itself had decided to put on a show.

Even the path added drama. In places it grew wild and unruly with brambles reaching out like mischievous hands, nettles lined the trail with quiet menace, ferns sweeping our faces in almost a loving fashion, and tall grasses brushed against our legs. But these untamed stretches were met with nothing but laughter and the satisfying rhythm of walking poles gently swishing through the undergrowth.

Smugglers, Secrets, and Stories from the Past

The highlight of our route was undoubtedly Prussia Cove; a hidden gem steeped in both natural beauty and scandalous history. Tucked away from the main tourist trail, this peaceful spot was once a hive of illicit activity, thanks to the infamous Carter family of the 18th century.

John Carter, the eldest brother, became known as the “King of Prussia” - a nickname thought to be inspired by his fascination with Frederick the Great. But he didn’t just adopt the title; he flew it like a flag. Quite literally. It’s said he raised a Prussian banner over the cove, defying the excisemen who scoured the coastline in search of smuggled goods.

Prussia Cove, with its hidden caves and natural inlets, provided the perfect cover. Under the cover of darkness, ships would slip in and out of the cove, unloading contraband such as tea, brandy, silk, right under the noses of the authorities. The locals, often sympathetic or simply silent, became part of the network, helping Carter keep the goods moving inland. It’s easy to romanticise smuggling today, but back then it was about survival, rebellion, and resilience...qualities still woven into the Cornish landscape.

Standing there now, with the sea gently lapping against the rocks and the sun glinting off the water, it's hard to imagine the secrets this cove once held. But if you listen closely, you can almost hear the creak of a wooden hull, the murmur of hushed voices, and the distant clink of a bottle being passed.

Cake, Community, and Why Walking Groups Matter

After looping inland through sun-drenched fields and hedgerows heavy with honeysuckle, we found ourselves back where we began, a little flushed, a little dusty, and thoroughly content. No Cornish Ramblings walk is complete without a post-walk pitstop, and The Peppercorn Café was the perfect place to rest our legs and refuel with coffee, cake, and cheerful conversation.

As we sat in the sunshine, reflecting on the morning’s adventures, I felt a wave of gratitude. Not just for the views or the history or the weather, but for the company. That’s what makes Cornish Ramblings so special. It’s not just about where we walk, but who we walk with.

Walking groups offer something quietly powerful in a noisy world. They invite connection in a way that feels natural and grounding. They encourage movement, mindfulness, and moments of joy that sneak up on you mid-stride or mid-laugh. Whether you're joining for fitness, friendship, fresh air, or simply to escape the buzz of everyday life, you belong here. (Also, if you enjoy a giggle, you'll be right at home...)

There’s a kind of magic that happens when you walk alongside others. Stories unfold, barriers soften, and you start to notice the world - and yourself - a little differently. That’s what Cornish Ramblings is all about: creating space for exploration, community, and a good dose of Cornish soul.

So, if you’ve been thinking about joining us, consider this your sign. There’s always room for one more pair of boots on the path. And who knows what memories we’ll make next?

Join Us for a Ramble

Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or someone who’s only just found their walking boots, Cornish Ramblings is all about community, curiosity, and connection. Each walk is thoughtfully planned to include a dose of Cornwall’s magic, be it coastal paths, hidden woodlands, historic landmarks, or local cafés with the best slices of cake.

You don’t need to be fast, fit, or fancy, just willing to walk, talk, and take it all in. We welcome solo walkers, couples, friends, and four-legged companions (on many of our routes). Come as you are, leave feeling lighter, brighter, and a little more connected to nature and to others.

📬 Upcoming rambles are shared exclusively through my Cornish Ramblings newsletter. Subscribers get first access to walk dates, sign-up info, and extra rambly updates — so be sure to join the mailing list if you want to get involved.

📩 Got a question? Fancy a chat before your first walk? Drop me a message, I’d love to hear from you.

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